One of the problems concerning this species is its constantly changing scientific name. It is more commonly known as Lamprologus meleagris. The debate over which name is correct, or whether they are synonyms or separate species, is ongoing. At this point, the name L. stappersi is considered correct, but the genus name implies another problem. According to many ichthyologists, the genus name Lamprologus should not be used for fish from Tanganyika.
L. stappersi have the shape and some features of L. ocellatus, but are less distinctive. Although they are often kept in the Tanganyika group, many keepers have found that, unlike the aggressive robust “ocelots”, these can be over-stressed by active counterparts that really pose no threat. When keeping L. stappersi in a community tank, the keeper should note “stress” coloration, excessive hiding, and possibly weight loss.
Determining the sex is not easy. In a group of fish of the same age, males are noticeably larger and often the spots on their tail form distinct stripes. However, experienced breeders know that there are much better distinguishing marks on the head. The female’s head is shorter and steeper, and her mouth is smaller. Males have a larger “bulldog” head. Coloration is irrelevant in this case; when irritated, females may be even more colorful than males, especially subdominant males tend to be paler than accepted females.
The species may breed in pairs or in groups, although one pair should not be kept alone all the time, as the male may harm the female if he does not have enough space to discharge his aggression. The female may also threaten the male if he defends the young fish. A more suitable environment should contain either additional females to form a harem, or similarly sized males to distract both members of the pair. The tank should be sufficiently spacious, at least 80 cm or more in length, especially when this relatively prolific species begins to lay eggs.
Breeding
The tank for rearing L. stappersi does not need to be special, just the same as for rearing ordinary fish: water, temperature and filtration are important. However, they need a shell to live. There are a variety of options offering different types of shells. In the shops, look for unpainted (raw) shells with a diameter of between 3 and 6 cm and a round opening. You can also buy suitable shells at pet supply stores, which are often sold for hermit crabs. Snail shells are light enough to move and are the ideal shape and size. Any gourmet store or upscale grocery store will sell them, and if not, even a French restaurant can be a good source. Less common are PVC clamshells with a cap on one end, although by using such an option the owner denies himself the opportunity to observe the fascinating behavior of the fish while arranging the shell.
L. stappersi and its related species L. ocellatus are gifted ‘baggers’. Given enough sand, they are adept at burying the entire shell, except for its entrance hole. Both of these species are native to areas where shells are scattered, so too many dug-up shells do not represent a natural habitat and can lead to an increase in aggressive territorial behaviour.
L. stappers are not fastidious in their diet, and in part tend to adapt to surface feeding, unlike their less bold cousins. As they stay on the bottom, they prefer mainly non-swimming food, e.g. good quality cichlid tablets. These tablets are a good basis for a balanced diet, as the crumbs left by the adults are the first food for the young fish long before their owner is aware of their existence.
In the case of adult fish, breeding is quite simple, although it does require a little patience. Like many Tanganyikan species, L. stappersi takes some time to grow up. Before and after egg-laying, the female excessively burrows and digs in the sand around her chosen shell, which is often sized to allow her entry but not to allow any fish other than herself to enter. She lays the eggs inside and the male fertilizes them usually at the moment she comes out, so that the milt is drawn into the shell by the vacuum caused. The young fish hatch after a few days, but remain in the shell for about a week.
Often before they venture out, the female will dig a hole in front of the shell – a sort of ‘crib’, presumably to create a boundary for their short excursions. Gradually these are widened to a deeper trench until the young are ready to leave the site and the female can return the shell to its standard mode, half-buried.
Because of their slow growth, good quality feeding is essential, especially during the first few months of life. Multiple feedings throughout the day, slightly warmer temperatures and frequent water changes are also beneficial to the growth of the fish. Even if all this does not stimulate such a significant increase in growth rate, it will certainly help to increase their viability.
Females abandon their young after about one month, when they definitely stop accepting them in their territory. Nevertheless, the young fish are rarely threatened by other individuals, and the male inhabiting a separate territory can take care of them (protects them). The juveniles are almost identical to the adults when they swim out, except for their pearlescent lustre, and they also have the ability to change colour. They can blend in equally well with light sand as they can with a dark shell opening. Juveniles are quite benthic (i.e. they stick very close to the bottom, not like adults), but are also capable swimmers should they decide to leave the substrate.
L. stappersi are a bit demanding of space and its distribution compared to other snails, but they are probably the most beautiful shell-dwelling fish. No keeper will almost certainly regret keeping this stunning species.